【十年中国风】环球中国味,谁是TOP1?******
中新网北京10月7日电题:【十年中国风】环球中国味,谁是TOP1?
作者 刘越
这十年来,谁才是“中国味道”中的人气TOP1?
如果在网上这样发问,得到的答案必定五花八门又暗藏“刀光剑影”——
超越时空局限,中国味道“燃起来”
霎时间,川菜、粤菜、湘菜、鲁菜等各大菜系粉丝纷纷下场,煎饼果子、臭豆腐、驴打滚等地方小吃拥趸也不遑多让。可谓“一条大河波浪宽,两岸口味不一般”。
哈尔滨师大夜市,市民们现场享用美食。中新社记者 孙汉仑 摄泱泱中华地大物博,华夏儿女食不厌精。再加上这十年来,随着经济发展,人流物流通达,餐饮及相关行业稳步前行,中国味道在跨越时空限制后愈加异彩纷呈——
云南人能在武汉吃到正宗的东北杀猪菜,天津人围着延边烤肉喝着北京二锅头。中国互联网信息中心数据显示,截至2021年底,网上外卖用户规模超过5亿人。科技的进步让“十里不同风,百里不同俗”成为“足不出户,尽享天下美食”。
如果把问题换成“外国人最爱的中国味道”,答案又会如何?网友们大概率会犹豫又不失礼貌地反问:“呃……是不是饺子和烤鸭?”
那么,“中国味道”在海外的这十年,又究竟呈现出怎样的发展轨迹?
海外的“中国味道”是什么味?
和“华夏吃货”兼收并蓄的“中国胃”相比,老外们的口味着实有点让人难以捉摸。不过这十年来,越来越多的中国美食扬帆出海,让海外正宗的中国味道,也逐渐变得有“迹”可循。
中国餐饮文化对外输出由来已久且影响深远。以日本厚生劳动省近年来公布的资料为例,共有近6万家中华料理店遍布日本全国。不过海外有两个关于中餐的概念——“改良中餐”和“本味中餐”。前者结合本地口味,后者更加原汁原味。
加拿大蒙特利尔,在唐人街举行的亚洲美食集市吸引食客光顾。中新社记者 余瑞冬 摄在采访中,小新被狠狠科普了一波“洋中餐刺客”。“学校附近有一家点菜制的中餐馆,难吃得令人发指。”在意大利留学四年的声乐老师安德烈(化名)回忆:“印象中最难吃的一道菜是锅包肉,难以下咽,嚼起来像橡皮糖,味道跟中国完全不一样。”
曾任日本“麻辣联盟”中国支部总代表的何珂表示,中餐的改良有其客观原因。他介绍,川菜传入日本时,缺乏基础的四川调味料,只能寻求替代品,比如用日本的味噌代替甜面酱来炒回锅肉,味道自然不够正宗。
而近十年间,随着国际交往的密切和中华文化的影响力日彰,原汁原味的中餐也正在异军突起。其中,火锅表现亮眼,按照门店收入计算,2021年的国际中式餐饮市场中火锅占比11.1%,约289亿美元。此外,兰州拉面、酸菜鱼、广式早茶等美食纷纷扬帆出海,正宗中国味道席卷全球。
“中国味道”,何以在世界大放异彩?
在何珂看来,饮食文化的传递是循序渐进的。
“经过改良后,把更适应当地口味的菜品做出来,也更有利于中华料理的对外传播。”而十年一瞬弹指间,无论是改良还是原味,中国味道在海外都开辟出更广阔的赛道。弗若斯特沙利文的报告显示,2021年,国际市场上的中式餐饮数量已经超过60万家,市场规模高达2644亿美元。
日本街头中餐店。留学生小董供图“从前日本流行改良版的中餐,但从去年开始,日本兴起了一个潮流‘ガチ中華’,即追求本味的中国菜。”何珂以花椒举例,近年来,一些在日本开餐厅的当地人,每年会来成都收购青花椒带回国,他们很喜欢花椒的香味和麻味。
中国味道为何能在世界大放异彩?除了中餐本身的味觉魅力,经济发展推动综合国力增强,大批华人出海创业、留学、旅游,中餐消费群体日益增长;互联网上资讯发达,李子柒、厨师王刚等美食博主火遍全球,让外国食客渴望尝试更地道的中国味道;与此同时,中国文化的对外影响力不断提升,辐射到生活的方方面面。
海外中餐店。留学生路萱供图美食作家李作民认为,所有美食本质上都是一种文化现象,“中餐在美国或者在全球有多大影响,取决于中国文化对海外有多大的影响。”
谁才是海内外的“中国味道”人气TOP1?或许这个问题并没有统一的答案。中国味道不拘泥菜系,而在于百花齐放的美食格局;中国味道不限制地域,我们有“足不出户,吃遍天下美食”的科技硬实力;中国味道更是不必纠结“改良”或“本味”——在这两条赛道上,中国味道都正在日益香飘全球。
中新网评:处理核污水绝不是日本自家私事****** 中新网北京1月19日电(蒋鲤)日本政府近日称,将于2023年春夏期间开始向海洋排放经过处理的福岛第一核电站核污水。日本罔顾国内民众及周边国家的屡屡反对,企图将核污水“一倒了之”,把一件关乎全球海洋生态环境和公众健康的事当成了自家私事。 资料图:日本福岛第一核电站。2011年,福岛核电站事故发生后,大量放射性物质泄漏到大气层和太平洋,对周围环境造成了难以逆转的伤害,数十万人被迫撤离该地区。时至今日,作为日本邻国之一的韩国仍未解除福岛海鲜禁令。 日本以核污水存储能力即将达到上限为由,在2021年4月13日,正式决定将福岛第一核电站核污水排入太平洋。过去一年多,日本政府和东京电力公司一直在持续推进核污水排海计划。 日本政府辩称,这些核污水经多核素处理系统(ALPS)处理后很安全,甚至“可以喝”,这样的表态无疑在愚弄大众。 事实上,经过处理的核污水仍含有多种放射性物质,核污水一旦排放入海就无法回收,长期来看,将会给海洋生态带来难以估量的潜在威胁,最终危害人类健康。 因此,核污水排海计划推出后,遭到日本民众强烈反对。日本《朝日新闻》2022年3月公布的问卷调查显示,福岛县、宫城县和岩手县受访的42个市町村长中,约六成反对东京电力公司福岛第一核电站核污水排放入海。日本全国渔业协会联合会也多次申明立场,反对该计划。 日本政府认为,核污水排海是最便宜、最省事的解决方案,但此举却将周边国家乃至全世界置于核污染风险中。太平洋非日本一家之海,核污水会随着洋流流动,其影响势必会跨越国界,危害周边国家乃至整个国际社会的公共福祉和利益。 《韩国经济新闻》发文称,相关研究认为,福岛核污水如果排放入海,约7个月后将到达济州等韩国海域,该国水产业和旅游业将遭受相当大的损失。 德国南极海洋机构也曾发出警告,若日本将所有核污水排入海中,不到半年,整个太平洋都将面临高度辐射威胁,包括远在大洋另一端的美国。太平洋地区人民更是对日本该计划持反对意见。 日本作为《联合国海洋法公约》缔约国,有义务保护海洋环境。然而,在核污水排海方案的正当性、核污水数据的可靠性、净化装置的有效性、环境影响的不确定性等问题上,日本未能作出科学、可信的说明。 国际原子能机构技术工作组虽已三次赴日实地考察评估,但尚未就日排海方案的安全性给出结论,并且对日本提出诸多澄清要求和整改意见。在此情况下,日本仍执意推进核污水排海工程建设,这是极不负责任的行为。 太平洋不是日本的下水道,日本必须正视各方合理关切,在与周边国家等相关利益方和国际原子能机构充分协商后,制定合理的核污水处理方案。日本也要着眼长远,若只顾眼前,执意将核污水排放入海,不仅其自身,周边国家乃至全世界都将为之买单,其后果必将会危害数代人。 Fukushima water disposal by no means Japan’s own business By John Lee (ECNS) -- Japan has announced it will release treated wastewater from the wrecked Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant into the Pacific Ocean this year. Although Fukushima wastewater disposal affects global marine ecological environment protection and public health, Japan has turned a deaf ear to domestic and international opposition to dumping the contaminated water into the sea, treating the "global" matter as its own business. The Fukushima accident in 2011 had sent large quantities of radiation into the atmosphere and the Pacific Ocean, causing irreversible damage to the surrounding environment, and hundreds of thousands of people were forced to evacuate the area. South Korea still maintains its import ban on Japanese seafood from areas affected by the Fukushima nuclear disaster. On April 13, 2021, Japan announced it had decided to discharge contaminated radioactive wastewater in Fukushima Prefecture into the sea due to dwindling storage space, with the Japanese government and plant operator Tokyo Electric Power Company Holdings Inc. promoting the release plan over the past year. The Japanese government argues that the water treated by an advanced liquid processing system, or ALPS, is safe and drinkable, which is undoubtedly fooling the public. In fact, the treated wastewater still includes a variety of radioactive substances and can’t be recycled once discharged into the sea, which will pose a great threat to marine ecology and ultimately endanger human health in the long run. Therefore, the discharge plan has been strongly opposed in Japan. According to a questionnaire conducted by The Asahi Shimbun, nearly 60 percent of mayors of 42 municipalities in Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima prefectures oppose the discharge plan. The National Fisheries Cooperative Federation of Japan has also repeatedly stated its opposition in public. The Japanese government believes that dumping Fukushima wastewater into the sea is the cheapest and most convenient solution, but neighboring countries and even the whole world will be at risk of nuclear pollution. The Pacific Ocean doesn’t belong to Japan and the wastewater flow along oceanic currents will surely break boundaries and endanger public welfare and the interests of neighboring countries and even the international community. The Korea Economic Daily reported that related research concluded that if contaminated water from Fukushima is released into the ocean, it would only take seven months for the contaminated water to reach the shores of Jeju Island, with the country's aquaculture and tourism suffering considerable losses. According to the calculation of a German marine scientific research institute, radioactive materials will spread to most of the Pacific Ocean within half a year from the date of discharge, and the U.S. and Canada will be affected by nuclear pollution. People in the Pacific region also oppose the discharge plan. As a participant of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, Japan has the obligation of protecting the marine environment. However, it hasn’t offered a full and convincing explanation on issues like the legitimacy of the discharge plan, the reliability of data on the nuclear-contaminated water, the efficacy of the treatment system or the uncertainty of environmental impact. Though the IAEA has yet to complete a comprehensive review after three investigations in Japan, the Japanese side has been pushing through the approval process for its discharge plan and even started building facilities for the discharge. It is rather irresponsible for Japan to act against public opinion at home and concerns abroad. The Pacific Ocean is not a private Japanese sewer. The country must seriously heed the voices of the international community and make a reasonable plan for the Fukushima wastewater disposal after full consultation with stakeholders and international agencies. If it only seeks instant interest and insists on discharging the contaminated water into the sea, not only itself, but also its neighboring countries and the entire world will pay for the decision and several generations will be forced to bear the consequence.
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